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Glossary of Terms & Materials
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Handbag Terms
In conversation with the accessory buyer or with a particular knowledgeable
shopper you may come across some handbag, luggage or personal accessory terms
which are unfamiliar to you. Here are a few to keep in mind:
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Bracelet Handle: A handle made in the shape of a complete
closed circle.
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East-West: Describes a handbag shape which is wider than
it is long.
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Gusset: The triangular end piece of a handbag which gives
depth and roominess to
the shape.
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Luggage Handle: Has the same rigid shape as the handle of
an ordinary suitcase.
May be made of metal covered with leather or material.
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North-South: Describes a long narrow shape.
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Top-Handle: A
handle not long enough to go over the shoulder, designed to be held in
the hand.
Materials
Designers constantly think of new, off-beat materials to use, but the
basic-leather, synthetics, fabrics and straw will account for most of the bags
you sell. The quality of a handbag depends on the quality of the materials used.
Leathers
Calfskin: made from the hides of young cattle, has soft, smooth texture which
makes it
desirable for the finest quality handbags.
Kip (Steerhide): from a somewhat older animal, is less fragile than calf, but
not as
supple and fine.
Cowhide: from the full grown animal, a grained leather especially popular for
casual
bags.
Sheep and Lambskin: Light, fine grained leathers used primarily in imported
bags.
Reptile: skins used for handbags include those of certain types of snakes,
turtles and
lizards. All are distinguished by the intricate patterns of the animal's scaled
skin. Some
reptile materials are restricted from use in handbags by laws which protect
endangered
species.
Before they are made into bags, leathers are subjected to a variety of
treatments and finishes which create great variety in color and appearance.
Antiqued leather has a smooth finish and a mottled, mellow look. The grain of
crushed
leather is accented by shrinking.
Glazed leather has a polished finish, whereas a matte finish is dull.
Suede is a treatment applied to the flesh side of a skin to produce a napped,
velvet-like
finish.
Embossing reproduces grain and other patterns on the leather surface. It may be
used
to duplicate a natural phenomonon-reptile grain may be embossed on smooth
leather,
for example-or it may be used to create an entirely new effect. One popular
embossed
grain is saffian, which gives a crosshatched texture to the leather surface.
Patent is high gloss finish on leather. Thick leather is split into two or more
layers
before use. The top layer, containing the natural grain is called top grain. All
other
layers are splits.
Synthetics
Originally developed as less expensive substitutes for leather, man-made
materials have become important handbag components on their own merits and are
now used in a large percentage of handbags made in the United States. New
textures and colors are continually introduced. The principal man-made materials
are vinyl and polyurethane. Light weight and wipe-clean care are two factors
contributing to their popularity. Embossing, patent and other finishes used on
leathers are created on man-made materials as well. A major innovation in
handbag technology is flow molding, in which liquid material flows into a mold
and emerges as a finished bag, complete will all details of texture and
stitching.
Fabrics
Virtually every fabric that's used to make garments has been used at one time or
another to make handbags. Certain materials have become classics:
Burlap is a coarse, bumpy cloth used in casual bags.
Canvas, durable and good looking, is the most popular fabric used in handbags.
Duck, a similar but somewhat heavier fabric, is also used.
Cotton in an incredible variety of prints and textures is used in novel summer
handbags.
Faille has a ribbed surface with a smooth, rich finish. The fabric is a flat,
cross-grained
silk, wool or rayon used in dressy styles.
Linen, woven from flax, is a spring classic.
Needlepoint and tapestry are heavy, ornamental fabrics used in knitting bags and
similar styles.
Peau de soie is a dull satin used in evening bags.
Petit point refers to a very fine cross stitch worked by hand. Fine petit points
are
almost always imported.
Silk brocade, crepe, bengaline, moire and satin are used for elegant late-day
bags.
Velvet has luster and richness which make it ideal for dressier bags. Solids,
prints and
cut velvets are all popular.
Straws
Straw bags have been basic summer accessories for years. Classic straw bags of
willow or rattan were
hand woven into rigid shapes. More modern straws are soft and cloth like; most
are imported.
© Copyright 1997 FASA, New York, NY.
All rights reserved.
